Kamis, 09 Agustus 2012

Gold or silver jewellery? Now we can wear both


In case Seb Coe and Co are hyperventilating over the legacy issue, I have one excellent option I can lay on the table right now. Yes, Houston, the vexed question of whether you can wear silver or gold jewellery simultaneously has finally and categorically been answered in the affirmative. If that's not something to bequeath to future generations, I don't know what is.

For years, women have tussled with this dilemma. You receive your first piece of serious jewellery in your teen years, around confirmation/bat mitzvah/13th summer solstice time. Invariably, it's gold because, with apologies to Becky Adlington, gold does have a slight edge over other metals. After that, it gets complicated. Jewellery, being a marker of so many important milestones, can soon spiral out of control. First comes the rites of passage Tiffany & Co heart necklace (or copy thereof), followed in short order by the Links of London charm bracelet, both silver. Then there are the Glasto years, during which you pile on bracelets and necklaces made from rubber, twine, old Coke tin pulls, your boyfriend's - sorry, ex-boyfriend's - hair.


Left to right: Jessica Alba in yellow and white gold earrings, and Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2012 PHOTO: REX/VLADIMIR POTOP

By now, your personal cache of "heirlooms" looks a right mess. Though you, being a teenager, think it looks quirky and amazingly individual. You add a nose stud, just to horrify your mother, and are appalled to discover that while you were rebelliously instructing your best mate to jab a needle through your nostril during a cider high on a tor in the middle of a mudslide, your mum nipped into Selfridges to get a ring stud of her own.

The rich are different: their shops have sofas

Next up is the engagement or first serious job ring. You become an instant expert in carats, depth of clarity and platinum. You spend far too much time on the S J Phillips website. You remove all the flotsam and jetsam on your fingers, wrists, toes, ankles, nostrils, etc, and start afresh with just the one, tasteful mega‑diamond. It's strictly gold and diamonds from now on. You are a purist.

But then come the baby eternity rings, the promotion rewards, the divorce consolations, the Presents to Oneself because no one else will buy you what you like, the "precious" (case in point) gifts from grannies and godchildren. You love them to bits, but would it be too much for them to realise that only gold works with your colouring? Before you know it, you're out-blinging the Olympic cauldron, but not with any kind of medal-worthy style.

Shop: Gold

So let's take a deep breath and start again. Because while all kinds of jewellery mixes can work beautifully, they have to be the right kind of all kinds. Two of the most inspiring jewellery wearers - Coco Chanel and Camille Miceli, the ridiculously chic Parisian who designs jewellery for Dior - share a knack for apparently insouciantly chucking it all on together, but don't be fooled. There's rigorous method to their spontaneity. Both pay attention to scale and, while they boldly combine fakes and the real thing, they never try to marry piddly, delicate pieces with stonking stones. While Miceli mixes materials, including wood bangles with pearl chokers (Chanel generally stuck with gold), she only wears colours that suit her olive skin.

"It's particularly chic to wear silver, gold and bronze together," says Monica Vinader, who is no slouch in the jewellery wearing department. As for which metals suit: "Rose gold looks best on pale skin. I love gold worn with dark hair and, as I get older, I think gold is the most flattering metal on me. Silver looks best with a tan."


Left to right: Charm necklace from £65, Monica Vinader; monicavinader.com. Earrings £225, Zara Simon; astleyclarke.com. Necklace £170, Lulu Frost at Liberty; 020 7734 1234.

Elizabeth Taylor's record-breaking jewellery auction

Bec Clarke, the elegant founder of Astley Clarke, advises thinking about unity of design. "Don't mix boho with edgy angles - it's too confusing a message. Wear maxi chains with a little pendant. Pearls look great layered and knotted in different lengths [à la Coco Chanel] and even better with a modern maxi chain added to the mix."

Clarke also recommends going precious every day. "Fine jewellery shouldn't be left to gather dust in a jewellery box. I always start my outfit with my jewellery, not the other way round. One statement piece supported by finer, miniature jewellery details is a good rule. If you're going for grown-up boho, layer coloured gemstone friendship bracelets alongside colourful stacking rings."

Remember, too, the power of refusal.Despite her job, Miceli regularly goes jewellery-less, which makes a strong statement in itself and also guarantees that when she does wear jewels, they get noticed.

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